No, this is not a new cookbook. But this is one of the most-used cookbooks on my shelf (and I have tons of cookbooks), so I'm going to shine a fresh new light on it and recommend Sarah Schlesinger's The Garden Variety Cookbook: More Than 500 Vegetable and Fruit Recipes for Nonvegetarians.
The tag line at the bottom of the front cover reads "How to make certain you and your family eat the recommended five to nine servings of fruits and vegetables each day." This book is 19 years old, but it couldn't be more relevant for our 21st century home cooking and dietary needs.
Schlesinger opens with an Eating Plan which I read through initially and found very useful. I'm not one to follow someone else's menus, but Schlesinger's plan is far more pragmatic than that: it includes shopping and storing advice and a focus on what she calls the Fabulous Forty Garden Variety Fruits and Vegetables. By the time you finish reading about these, I guarantee you'll have whet your appetite for fresh produce. Schlesinger's approach is not only informative, but appetizing.
Also in the beginning, Schlesinger delivers basic cooking techniques (grilling, steaming, stir-frying and blanching) so the reader can quickly learn how to prepare the recipes she includes in the main section of the book.
There are many things I like about her recipes. One of them is Schlesinger's insistence on cooking whole foods. These recipes aren't diet recipes per se, but simple, healthy recipes exploding with texture and fresh flavor. Though the book is organized like traditional cookbooks with meat chapters filling out the middle of the book, Schlesinger succeeds at making fresh produce the star, which is how healthy eating should be.
In addition to her overarching whole foods mindset, Schlesinger does a great job of showing you what amounts to practically endless possibilities for combining fruits and vegetables so that, really, you have no real excuse for not finding something good to cook in this book that involves those fresh items you already have on hand.
Each chapter comes with some very basic starter recipes that follow the chapter's theme. These are all pretty good go-to recipes in and of themselves. On top of that, Schlesinger offers Quick Takes, expanding those basic ideas. I love the Quick Takes section in particular because it takes the core basic recipes and expands them in all sorts of creative ways you might never have thought of on your own. Finally, the At Your Leisure section offers more complicated recipes for the adventurous cook willing to take on new techniques and new flavors. Even these recipes are do-able for most home cooks.
What I like most about this book is the general flexibility with which the author approaches cooking in the first place. Want to make a hearty minestrone soup? She offers You-Choose-the-Vegetables Minestrone and cites the following possibilities: Carrots with Cauliflower and Escarole; Broccoli with Corn and Green Beans; Cabbage with Zucchini and Carrots; Eggplant with Green Beans and Red Bell Pepper; and Brussels sprouts with Corn and Carrots. In my house, the cabbage-zucchini-carrots version would be a hit, but your family may crave one of the different varieties. The point is that we often forget that a recipe for minestrone is not one size fits all; rather, a minestrone can have many variations and still be good, and you, as the cook, have the pleasure of choosing, with her imaginative guidance, the recipe that appeals most to you.
Finally, at the end you'll find a microwave section which is really useful for anyone who thinks the microwave is only for reheating leftovers or making popcorn. I'm a fan of Barbara Kafka's The Microwave Gourmet and very frequently use my microwave oven for all sorts of real cooking techniques (especially steaming vegetables). If you don't own Kafka's book, Schlesinger's will work equally well in teaching you how to master the microwave.
Because this book is almost 20 years old, I'm not sure how relevant or accurate the nutrition information is at the front of the book, though quickly paging through it again, I don't think you'll find any misinformation there, either. What she promoted nearly two decades ago resonates today: eat more fruits and vegetables if you want to prevent cancer, fight obesity, delay diet-related diabetes and improve your general health and well-being. She also promotes a lower-sodium, higher-fiber regimen which is equally relevant today as doctors continue to fight the battle against heart disease.
Look for this book on bookstore shelves if you can, or try out your local library or used bookstore. Be warned: you'll likely need to buy it used online if you can't find it elsewhere. Brand-new copies found online run to extremes (I did find one new copy for $4, but the usual price range for new copies through second-party sellers was $46-$100 as of this posting). However, used "like new" copies of this book are available and run less than $18 with shipping, which is more than reasonable for this very useful cookbook.
Friday, February 25, 2011
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Winter Link Love: Farm to table news from all over the US in 50 links
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| Creative Commons image: "Rhubarb for sale in Seattle" by Foodista. |
- New Organic Milk Contains Illegal Synthetic Additive ~ Webwire (WI)
- Update: Traditional Food Act passes ~ Caspar Star-Tribune Online (WY)
- Deep freeze in Mexico expected to affect fresh produce supplies ~ News-Star.com (OK)
- Learning how to eat, again ~ The Valley Advocate (ME)
- Commission seeks to link farmers markets ~ Chattanooga Times Free Press (GA)
- Sunflower opens third Utah store ~ Natural Products Marketplace (UT)
- USDA, others invest $5M to grow broccoli in East ~ AgWeek (VA)
- Fear of debt: Should I finance my dream? ~ CNNMoney (MT)
- New sustainable agriculture major at University of New Hampshire ~ The Wire (NH)
- Farmer's market caught selling more than just produce ~ FoxReno.com (NV)
- Farm bureau April 15 scholarship deadline nears ~ Cape Gazette (DE)
- Fresh Produce on Every Corner ~ BioCycle (PA)
- Senate okays beer, wine tasting at farmers markets ~ Seattle Times (WA)
- $150,000 grant helps increase access to Michigan produce ~ Rapid Growth (MI)
- New West series/Multimedia Feature: How Families Manage in the Rural Food Deserts of the West ~ New West (NM)
- Bill may send mobile farmers markets to New Jersey's urban areas ~ Press of Atlantic City (NJ)
- With Emanual Comes Improved Food Policy ~ Gaper's Block (IL)
- Harvest time arrives for isle-grown potatoes ~ Star Advertiser (HI)
- Counties want Md. wineries to be able to sell at farmers' markets ~ Baltimore Business Journal (MD)
- House passes bill supporting farmers' markets ~ Newberg Graphic (OR)
- How Whole Foods is Embracing its Local Produce Rivals ~ bNet (FL)
- 14 Jackson County schools honored for healthy eating programs ~ GulfLive.com (MS)
- Budget cuts to shutter Farmers Markets ~ Montgomery Advertiser (AL)
- Chefs, farmers work hand in spatula ~ The Desert Sun (CA)
- Farm shares let customers reap in part of the crop ~ Ohio.com (OH)
- Eco Etiquette: Can you eat organic on food stamps? ~ Huffington Post (web)
- Benefits of Eating Local Explored ~ The Wanderer (MA)
- Time of year to break out storage crops ~ Alaska Daily News (AL)
- Sprouts to merge with Henrys Farmers Markets ~ The Daily Camera (AZ & TX)
- ISU Extension Offers Crop Scout School ~ Wallaces Farmer (IA)
- Wednesday farmers market in Mountain Home a problem for county business, Baxter County judge says ~ Baxter Bulletin (AR)
- Missouri beginning farmers program starts monthly webinar series ~ Macon Chronicle Herald (MO)
- Mike Hendricks: Gardening trend could get boost in KC ~ Kansas City Star (KS)
- Farmers to discuss award-winning foods at Innovative Farmers of Ohio Annual Conference in Hiram: Local Flavor ~ Cleveland Plain Dealer (OH)
- Growth in farmers' markets continues into winter months ~ Indiana Business Journal (IN)
- Moving fresh produce from farm to school ~ Richmond Register (KY)
- 'Our food on our table' not as easy as it sounds ~ The Norwood Post (CO)
- Winter Farmers' Market in Full Bloom ~ Westport Patch (CT)
- Sesquicentennial Farm Applications due April 1 ~ The Farmer (MN)
- Sandhills Farm to Table: Matching supply and demand ~ The Pilot (NC)
- Former chef digs life on the farm ~ Capital Press (ID)
- SD project puts local food into school lunches ~ KCAU-TV (SD)
- Gardeners, start your broccoli seeds ~ Providence Journal (RI)
- Attorney General's Obesity Report Takes Comprehensive Approach ~ VPR News (VT)
- New Orleans: The food that got them through ~ Eatocracy (LA)
- Go Green: Container vegetable gardens great for small spaces ~ The Patriot Ledger (NY)
- Sarah Browning: Some basics about heirloom plants ~ The Journal Star (ND)
- New Market Center dedicated to agribusiness advocate ~ The Times and Democrat (SC)
- Disaster assistance approved ~ Times Daily (TN)
- Huntington, WV: With Jamie Olive gone, sponsorship disappears ~ The Atlantic (WV)
Labels:
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food policy,
food politics,
gardening,
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Friday, February 18, 2011
Market discoveries: Pea shoots

When I subscribed to Leap Frog Farm's CSA weekly vegie boxes last year, one of the vegetables I received with regularity from spring through fall was pea shoots.
I didn't even know what these were, at first. I found them in my spring mix and just thought they were a kind of green that tasted like peas. Then I recognized the curly tendrils and realized they were, in fact, the greens of peas (duh) as I began to get bags that solely contained pea shoots.
I continued to serve them as salad greens and did not realize until much, much later that pea shoots can be cooked as well.
Let me tell you, they're DELICIOUS. They are sweet like peas, crunchy, with great body. They can be wilted, sauteed, baked or steamed and pureed into creamy soups or sauces. They stand up to garlic and olive oil, marry well with rich salad dressings (like the bleu cheese dressing recipe I posted at this blog earlier this week) and can be tossed into pastas and grains like you would spinach greens. I'd even dare to top a pizza or bruschetta with some sauteed pea shoots.
Preparing them is easy: rinse and trim away any thicker stalks (if there are any), and you're good to go. They're also extremely inexpensive and available at farmer's markets (if they're open yet) and even at grocery stores with exceptional produce departments. I would even venture that they're easy to grow (in the Pacific Northwest, peas grow like weeds and they also have pretty flowers).
And if you need any more reason to try out these dynamic little greenies, they're very good for you: low in fat, high in fiber and extremely high in folic acid, beta carotene and vitamin C.
Public domain image: "Pisum sativum"
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Pantry Basics: Homemade Bleu Cheese Dressing
...in which I convince you that making your own pantry items is good for you...
Why? It's cheaper. It tastes better. You can control how much fat, sodium, sugar or preservatives go into your pantry items. It's easy!!! And finally... who isn't proud of themselves when they make good things from scratch?
Homemade Bleu Cheese Dressing
This is not the thin white condiment you pour out of a bottle from the fridge. This is chunky, rich, milky and flavorful. You can keep this in your fridge for about 7 days without losing much in the way of texture.
This recipe makes enough for dressing a week's worth of salads. It's rich, so a little goes a long way. Romaine (either chopped or torn into large pieces) and iceberg lettuce (either chopped or cut into small wedges) hold up best to this substantial bleu cheese dressing. If you have some chicken wings on your menu, you can use this as the dip for them, too. Don't forget the celery sticks!
I've included low-fat options for those watching their calories. I recommend Bulgarian-style buttermilk because it has all the good probiotics in it, but if you can't find it, substitute cultured buttermilk (remember, buttermilk is naturally low-fat).
Also, it's cheaper to buy a small wedge of bleu cheese in bulk than it is to buy it in a plastic tub pre-crumbled (today I noted the difference was four dollars or more per pound). If you can locate a good regional or domestic bleu cheese, go for it!
Finally, whatever else you do, please don't substitute that cloyingly sweet salad dressing that has the initials MW for the mayonnaise... promise? If you use anything else but straight-up mayonnaise, the flavor will be way off.
⅔ cup regular, low-fat, olive oil or homemade mayonnaise
⅓ cup regular or low-fat sour cream
¼ cup Bulgarian-style buttermilk
1 clove garlic, minced
4 to 6 ounces of bleu cheese, chopped into crumbles
Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
Combine mayonnaise, sour cream and buttermilk in a small bowl. Whisk in garlic. Fold in bleu cheese crumbles, then season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate in a covered container for at least an hour before serving.
Makes about 2 cups
Public domain image: "Fromage Bleu d'Auvergne" from France
Why? It's cheaper. It tastes better. You can control how much fat, sodium, sugar or preservatives go into your pantry items. It's easy!!! And finally... who isn't proud of themselves when they make good things from scratch?
Homemade Bleu Cheese Dressing
This is not the thin white condiment you pour out of a bottle from the fridge. This is chunky, rich, milky and flavorful. You can keep this in your fridge for about 7 days without losing much in the way of texture. This recipe makes enough for dressing a week's worth of salads. It's rich, so a little goes a long way. Romaine (either chopped or torn into large pieces) and iceberg lettuce (either chopped or cut into small wedges) hold up best to this substantial bleu cheese dressing. If you have some chicken wings on your menu, you can use this as the dip for them, too. Don't forget the celery sticks!
I've included low-fat options for those watching their calories. I recommend Bulgarian-style buttermilk because it has all the good probiotics in it, but if you can't find it, substitute cultured buttermilk (remember, buttermilk is naturally low-fat).
Also, it's cheaper to buy a small wedge of bleu cheese in bulk than it is to buy it in a plastic tub pre-crumbled (today I noted the difference was four dollars or more per pound). If you can locate a good regional or domestic bleu cheese, go for it!
Finally, whatever else you do, please don't substitute that cloyingly sweet salad dressing that has the initials MW for the mayonnaise... promise? If you use anything else but straight-up mayonnaise, the flavor will be way off.
⅔ cup regular, low-fat, olive oil or homemade mayonnaise
⅓ cup regular or low-fat sour cream
¼ cup Bulgarian-style buttermilk
1 clove garlic, minced
4 to 6 ounces of bleu cheese, chopped into crumbles
Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
Combine mayonnaise, sour cream and buttermilk in a small bowl. Whisk in garlic. Fold in bleu cheese crumbles, then season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate in a covered container for at least an hour before serving.
Makes about 2 cups
Public domain image: "Fromage Bleu d'Auvergne" from France
Friday, February 11, 2011
No-Toss Ideas: Broccoli Stems
I used to hate buying broccoli because so much of the vegetable is stem, hardly the pretty florets that everyone expects when they sit down to a serving of broccoli. But broccoli stems are just fantastic as a vegetable all their own and can be used in a number of ways. Always peel the tough parts first before using.
Soup: Coarsely chop, then steam them in the microwave*. Add steamed stems and cooking water into a bit of boiling chicken stock (hopefully some you made yourself!). Using a hand (immersion) blender, blend the cooked broccoli into the stock. Add cream or buttermilk, if desired, as well as salt and pepper, maybe a pinch of cayenne. Top hot soup with shredded cheddar cheese!
Stir-fry vegies: Thinly slice the stems (try using a mandoline). Add to stir-fry and cook like you would any other vegetable.
Cole slaw: Shred the stems and add to shredded cabbage and carrots. You can also skip the cabbage entirely and just use the broccoli shreds and carrots for a tasty coleslaw. Toss in some julienned red pepper for added color!
Pickled Broccoli Stems: Here's a fabulous recipe from Martha Rose Schulman which puts those stems to great use.
Crudite: Cut the stems into little sticks (like carrot sticks) for dipping raw into a creamy or cheesy dip or dressing.
Fried Broccoli Nuggets: Slice the stems into uniformly sized cubes and fry them like you would tempura or beer batter or other battered fried vegies.
Spread or filling: Chop the stems into small pieces, then steam in the microwave* until soft. Mash until stems are of a spreadable texture. Then: Mix into a spreadable processed or cream cheese with some chopped pimiento and spread onto small slices of bread for canapes, or pipe this mixture inside celery sticks for an appetizer. Or, stir mashed stems into mashed garbanzo beans with a little tahini paste, minced garlic, lemon juice and salt and pepper for a quick hummus.
Pizza topping: Slice the stems thinly into pepperoni-like coins, then use as a vegetable pizza topping. (You may wish to steam them first, but raw works as well.) You can also finely chop the stems and sprinkle them raw on sourdough rolls that have been split, then spread with pizza sauce and covered with slices of provolone cheese and sliced black olives, for an easy snack.
Grilled stems: Cut leftover stems into uniformly sized sticks. Steam in the microwave. Marinate like you would artichokes with a little lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Grill like you would artichokes.
Freezing for future use: You can parboil or steam the broccoli and package it into useful serving sizes using plastic freezer bags, then freeze for later use. It'll be more like the frozen broccoli you can buy at the store, so it won't have that broccoli crunch the raw vegetable offers, but you can make quick work of it for soup in that way. I can also be spotted throwing whole chunks of raw broccoli stem right into the freezer, into a catch-all freezer container holding other vegetable scraps, which I can thaw and chop up later for use in soup or stock.
*Steaming broccoli stems: Cut your stems as desired, then place in a single layer on the bottom of a microwave-safe dish. Add a tablespoon or so of water (more for larger amounts), then cover the dish, vent the lid or poke a hole in the plastic covering to vent, then microwave on high for 2-4 minutes (depending upon how much you are cooking). Generally, 3-4 minutes works for about 2 cups of chopped or cut broccoli stems. You may want to cook longer if you plan to mash the broccoli afterward, but be careful not to scorch the broccoli. Add 30 seconds each time until you are happy with the result.
Soup: Coarsely chop, then steam them in the microwave*. Add steamed stems and cooking water into a bit of boiling chicken stock (hopefully some you made yourself!). Using a hand (immersion) blender, blend the cooked broccoli into the stock. Add cream or buttermilk, if desired, as well as salt and pepper, maybe a pinch of cayenne. Top hot soup with shredded cheddar cheese!
Stir-fry vegies: Thinly slice the stems (try using a mandoline). Add to stir-fry and cook like you would any other vegetable.
Cole slaw: Shred the stems and add to shredded cabbage and carrots. You can also skip the cabbage entirely and just use the broccoli shreds and carrots for a tasty coleslaw. Toss in some julienned red pepper for added color!
Pickled Broccoli Stems: Here's a fabulous recipe from Martha Rose Schulman which puts those stems to great use.
Crudite: Cut the stems into little sticks (like carrot sticks) for dipping raw into a creamy or cheesy dip or dressing.
Fried Broccoli Nuggets: Slice the stems into uniformly sized cubes and fry them like you would tempura or beer batter or other battered fried vegies.
Spread or filling: Chop the stems into small pieces, then steam in the microwave* until soft. Mash until stems are of a spreadable texture. Then: Mix into a spreadable processed or cream cheese with some chopped pimiento and spread onto small slices of bread for canapes, or pipe this mixture inside celery sticks for an appetizer. Or, stir mashed stems into mashed garbanzo beans with a little tahini paste, minced garlic, lemon juice and salt and pepper for a quick hummus.
Pizza topping: Slice the stems thinly into pepperoni-like coins, then use as a vegetable pizza topping. (You may wish to steam them first, but raw works as well.) You can also finely chop the stems and sprinkle them raw on sourdough rolls that have been split, then spread with pizza sauce and covered with slices of provolone cheese and sliced black olives, for an easy snack.
Grilled stems: Cut leftover stems into uniformly sized sticks. Steam in the microwave. Marinate like you would artichokes with a little lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Grill like you would artichokes.
Freezing for future use: You can parboil or steam the broccoli and package it into useful serving sizes using plastic freezer bags, then freeze for later use. It'll be more like the frozen broccoli you can buy at the store, so it won't have that broccoli crunch the raw vegetable offers, but you can make quick work of it for soup in that way. I can also be spotted throwing whole chunks of raw broccoli stem right into the freezer, into a catch-all freezer container holding other vegetable scraps, which I can thaw and chop up later for use in soup or stock.
*Steaming broccoli stems: Cut your stems as desired, then place in a single layer on the bottom of a microwave-safe dish. Add a tablespoon or so of water (more for larger amounts), then cover the dish, vent the lid or poke a hole in the plastic covering to vent, then microwave on high for 2-4 minutes (depending upon how much you are cooking). Generally, 3-4 minutes works for about 2 cups of chopped or cut broccoli stems. You may want to cook longer if you plan to mash the broccoli afterward, but be careful not to scorch the broccoli. Add 30 seconds each time until you are happy with the result.
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
DIY Edibles: Early spring herb maintenance
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| Oregano and chives; thyme in a blue pot |
I'm one of the fortunate few who live in a region that isn't buried in snow this year. (Please don't hate me.)
The Pacific Northwest has been showing signs of spring leanings for weeks now, including the budding of trees, the appearance of crocus tips, the smell of the earth composting itself, the sounds of birdsong in early morning and, yes, even a few new croaks from the chorus frogs down by the pond.
With these treasured signs of renewal come some of those other less exotic realities that we hide from during the dark winter months: dirty windows, a new collection of yard waste from previous storms, weeds growing toward the new early sun in great earnest and patches of herbs that wintered over well but could use, say, a day at the spa?
I have pots and pots of them, and boy, do they need some maintenance!
Maintaining outdoor herb plants isn't all that complicated. If they've wilted all the way back over the winter (and you didn't trim them last fall already), you can cut them down to the soil line or to the point where the new green foliage is coming in. I'm talking mostly about parsley, dill, chervil other semi-hardies which die back every year but which still return.
Some, like basil and cilantro (at least in our region) don't return, so just remove the plants so you can make room for newbies as soon as next month (again, in our region; in the Midwest or East, you still have a couple of months to ponder the deep freeze, unfortunately).
Other herbs stay tough throughout the winter, such as thyme, marjoram, rosemary, oregano, winter savory and sage. Keeping these guys trimmed is still a good idea; they can grow woody if you don't keep them clipped to a manageable size, otherwise.
The chives, mint and tarragon are also coming on now, so you may want to just clear away all the dead parts and give the new growth a nice "haircut."
By the way, giving all your herbs a regular "haircut" is the best way to guarantee their future growth, so don't worry too much about cutting them back now... and use the cuttings whenever possible!
I have a tall plastic "asparagus keeper" that I use for fresh-cut herbs (mine is from Pampered Chef, but the Hutzler Herb Saver is inexpensive and works well, too). Simply wrap the cleaned cuttings in a little sleeve of paper towel, then place them, trimmed ends down, inside an inch or so of water (or just put an ice cube in there and let it melt) and store in the fridge. That'll keep them fresh for your kitchen pantry just as long and, coincidentally, inspire you to cook more with them if you place the container right in the front where you can't miss all that fresh green flavor just waiting to be used.
Finally, if you grow herbs in pots, you may want to scratch up the top of the soil with a fork just to break through any crust that might have formed over the winter. Then take a warm wet cloth and wipe down the sides of the pots. For those herbs growing right in the yard (for me, that's thyme and sage), a quick weeding and a little scratching of the soil around their rootballs should suffice.
Original photo: "Herb pots, February 2011" ©2011 Tamara Kaye Sellman. All Rights Reserved.
Friday, February 4, 2011
Seasonal Spotlight: Jerusalem Artichoke
She may look like a knob of red ginger or a stubby yam covered in chunky eyes, but the Jerusalem artichoke is neither. Nor is she related to the Globe artichoke of thick leaved, gourmet-loving fame.
So what is she, then?
I think of Jerusalem artichoke (aka Sunchoke) as a nutty root not dissimilar to the potato, resembling in flavor a water chestnut. She's not a pretty girl, but she's plenty tasty and good for you. And she's a home girl, native to North America, related to, of all things, sunflowers.
Here's what you can do with her:
1. Buy her from the local market. Don't be afraid. She might seen plain but she's really a friendly root! Look for smooth tubers without soft spots, wrinkling or new sprouts. If you can get smooth, round Jerusalem artichokes, good on you. More likely, she'll be knobby and uneven, but that's okay, too. When you get her home, keep her in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
2. Prepare her for cooking. This is where she's familiar, like a potato: the skin is edible and nutritious, so eating the skin is your choice. Just make sure to scrub her clean like you would a spud.
3. Cook her up! What are your favorite potato recipes? Try them on for size with Jerusalem artichokes. Roast her, bake her, boil her, steam her, sauté her. But in a flash, you can also shred her raw for a salad or stir-fry her quickly in a wok, something you can't do with a potato. Recipes that encourage her enjoyment include soups, stews and chowders; gratins; pickles; latkes; and purees.
Jamie Oliver has a fabulous and simple recipe you can dig into today: Sauteed Jerusalem Artichokes with Garlic and Bay Leaves. Or, try this very basic recipe for Mashed Sunchokes
MASHED SUNCHOKES
1 pound Jerusalem Artichokes
1/4 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup half and half
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
Peel and dice the Jerusalem artichokes into 1/2-inch cubes. Place in a 2-quart saucepan in water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer and cook 15 minutes or until cubes can be pierced easily with a knife tip. Drain and place Jerusalem artichoke cubes in a food processor. Add the remaining ingredients. Process until a smooth puree forms, about 10 to 15 seconds. Serve hot.
![]() |
| Public domain image: "Jerusalem Artichokes, aka Sunchokes" |
She may look like a knob of red ginger or a stubby yam covered in chunky eyes, but the Jerusalem artichoke is neither. Nor is she related to the Globe artichoke of thick leaved, gourmet-loving fame.
So what is she, then?
I think of Jerusalem artichoke (aka Sunchoke) as a nutty root not dissimilar to the potato, resembling in flavor a water chestnut. She's not a pretty girl, but she's plenty tasty and good for you. And she's a home girl, native to North America, related to, of all things, sunflowers.
Here's what you can do with her:
1. Buy her from the local market. Don't be afraid. She might seen plain but she's really a friendly root! Look for smooth tubers without soft spots, wrinkling or new sprouts. If you can get smooth, round Jerusalem artichokes, good on you. More likely, she'll be knobby and uneven, but that's okay, too. When you get her home, keep her in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
2. Prepare her for cooking. This is where she's familiar, like a potato: the skin is edible and nutritious, so eating the skin is your choice. Just make sure to scrub her clean like you would a spud.
3. Cook her up! What are your favorite potato recipes? Try them on for size with Jerusalem artichokes. Roast her, bake her, boil her, steam her, sauté her. But in a flash, you can also shred her raw for a salad or stir-fry her quickly in a wok, something you can't do with a potato. Recipes that encourage her enjoyment include soups, stews and chowders; gratins; pickles; latkes; and purees.
Jamie Oliver has a fabulous and simple recipe you can dig into today: Sauteed Jerusalem Artichokes with Garlic and Bay Leaves. Or, try this very basic recipe for Mashed Sunchokes
MASHED SUNCHOKES
1 pound Jerusalem Artichokes
1/4 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup half and half
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
Peel and dice the Jerusalem artichokes into 1/2-inch cubes. Place in a 2-quart saucepan in water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer and cook 15 minutes or until cubes can be pierced easily with a knife tip. Drain and place Jerusalem artichoke cubes in a food processor. Add the remaining ingredients. Process until a smooth puree forms, about 10 to 15 seconds. Serve hot.
Thursday, February 3, 2011
What's in Season: FEBRUARY
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| "Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris) with variously colored stems on sale at an outdoor farmers' market in Rochester, Minnesota" by Jonathunder (2010). This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license. |
If you want to be a seasonal cook, then knowing what's in season is tantamount! Lots of foods can be had cheaply year-round, but seasonal foods are generally cheaper, fresher and at their nutritional peak. Of course, not every season is going to yield local treasures (for instance, we never have local avocados in Seattle), but some times of the year are better than others for certain kinds of produce that don't come from your neck of the woods (like California or Florida avocados around Super Bowl time!). I've included these as well.
I also almost always prefer to choose USA-grown produce over imported (in an effort to keep that carbon footprint on the decline in our food supply), so some things that might be cheaper this time of year may be cheaper because they are grown very cheaply and come from far away. I recommend against purchasing these items because:
1. You can't be certain about the safety of growing practices outside the US, and
2. The amount of resources it takes to bring those foods to the States just isn't sustainable
Note: I'm a Pacific Northwestern native, so my bias will be toward what you can find in season in my region because that is what I can find where I live, so keep that in mind. Depending upon where you live, you may have many times more good options (say, in Florida) or many times fewer good options (i.e. Alaska). For a good general guide to seasonal shopping in your area, visit Sustainable Table.Without further ado...
WHAT'S IN SEASON: FEBRUARY
Fruit
Apples (the best cold storage varieties)
Bananas (try for US or Canadian grown)
Citrus (grapefruit, lemons, blood oranges, tangerines, oranges)
Grapes (try for US or Canadian grown)
Kiwifruit (try for US or Canadian grown)
Mango (try for US or Canadian grown)
Passionfruit (try for US or Canadian grown)
Pears
Pineapple
Starfruit (try for US or Canadian grown)
Strawberries (try for US or Canadian grown)
Vegetables
Artichokes
Avocados (try for US or Canadian grown)
Beets
Belgian Endive
Bok Choy
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Celery
Celery Root
Chard
Collards
Early Green Onions
Endive
Escarole
Fennel
Garlic (dry storage variety)
Herbs
Jerusalem artichokes
Kale
Leeks
Lettuces (Romaine, Iceberg, Leaf)
Mushrooms (try for US or Canadian grown)
New Peas
Onions (dry storage varieties)
Parsnips
Plum Tomatoes (try for US or Canadian grown)
Potatoes
Radicchio
Radishes
Rhubarb
Rutabaga
Shallots (dry storage varieties)
Spinach
Sprouts
Sweet Potatoes
Turnips
Watercress
Winter Squash
Other good buys
Eggs
HAPPY SHOPPING!
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